This is a travelogue about the first part of a Trip Alasdair and I took to Scotland, between 2026-07-06 and 2026-07-20. This includes our landing in Edinburgh. It covers Lowland locations including: Glasgow airport located in Paisley, Renfrewshire, The Trossachs in Stirling, Lanark and New Lanark in South Lanarkshire, Canonbie, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown in Dumfries and Galloway. Originally, it was intended to include Newburgh and Kirkcaldy in Fife, but an incident with a deflated tire near Loch Lubnaig, from the Gaelic Lùbnaig, meaning crooked, resulted in us having to cancel that part of our trip.
Glasgow

The Scottish Terrier, Abhag Albannach, in Gaelic, with the noun first, followed by the adjective, popularly called the Scottie, is a dog breed that originated in Scotland, along with four other breeds: Skye, Cairn, Dandie Dinmont, and West Highland White terriers. They are independent and rugged, originally bred to hunt vermin on farms. They are a small with a distinctive shape. In terms of health they have some serious issues. They are a playing piece in the board game Monopoly. Two former American presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt and George W. Bush have owned them.
This Scottie was located on the first floor (one floor above the ground floor) of Buchanan Galleries shopping centre, in Glasgow, where we had ventured for a meal. This was the first photo I had taken after landing in Scotland. There was a trail linking 40 Scottie Dog sculptures in the city of Glasgow and surrounding suburbs for eight weeks in the summer of 2026. We did not encounter any others. Note: Milou or Snowy in the Tintin books is a fox terrier, named after a dog Hergé (1907 – 1983), the cartoonist, had in real life.

One of the most popular Glasgow cartoonists was Bud Neill (1911 – 1970). In the above sculpture by: Tony Morrow (1954 – 2021) and Nick Gillon (1967 – ), we meet Sheriff Lobey Dosser, and villain Rank Bajin, sitting on El Fideldo, possibly the only two legged and, occasionally, talking horse that ever existed. Rank’s name refers to rank bad yin, where: rank is a Glaswegian term for rotten, while yin is Glaswegian for one. Bajin is the only main character in the strip who speaks with a standard middle-class English accent, while the other cartoon characters have a Glaswegian dialect, as they are all immigrants to Calton Creek, Arizona, from the Glasgow subburb of Calton, north of the River Clyde and the Glasgow Green.

The G.I. Bride appears in numerous cartoons by Neill. She is invariable shown with her wean in her arms (prophetically, her baby is called Ned), trying to thumb a ride with plaintive cries like Ony o’ youse blokes goin’ the length o’ Pertick? A bronze statue of the G.I. Bride is now in Partick Rail and Underground Station, located in what some have described as a colourful district east of Glasgow centre. The character was inspired by Tommy Morgan’s (1898 – 1958) popular stage character, Big Beenie, the G.I. War Bride.
Those who want to see other sculptures located in Glasgow may enjoy: https://bananie.wordpress.com/2020/09/04/public-sculptures-in-glasgow/
Loch Lomond to Saint Fillan’s Spring

We overnighted at a hotel near Glasgow airport (GLA) then rented a Skoda the next day to investigate areas to the north of Glasgow. Our next accommodation was set for New Lanark, which is south of Glasgow. Our first stop was at Balmaha on Loch Lomond. The highland boundary fault passes through islands on the lake, that can be seen from there. It is a major fault zone that traverses Scotland from Arran and Helensburgh on the west coast to Stonehaven in the east. It separates two different geological terranes that give rise to two distinct physiographic terrains: the Highlands and the Lowlands.
Leaving Loch Lomond, we headed towards the village of Saint Fillans. Unfortunately, a flat tire delayed our journey by three hours at the Cabin on Loch Lubnaig = The crooked lake. After the tire was replaced we continued our journey on to Saint Fillans, at the eastern end of Loch Earn. In terms of the highland divide, Saint Fillans is in the Highlands.
Saint Fillans was important because, of the origins of the name MacLellan. In the 1960s various books about Scottish clans, claimed that MacLellan was a sept of Clan MacDonald, located in the Hebrides. No mention of Kirkcudbright, at all. There was a Gaelic reference to it meaning the son of the servant (i.e. devotee) of (Saint) Fillan. There was also a reference to derived from Mac-a-ghille-dhiolan which means son of the bastard, and appears originally in the 1273 charter as McGillolane. By the 2020s, that name had been transformed into an Anglicized form of Gaelic Mac Gille Fhaolain (Scottish Gaelic) and Mac Giolla Fhaoláin (Irish), where Faolán’ a personal name representing a diminutive of faol = wolf. In the 1960s, there were no maps that I could find showing the location of Clan MacLellan. In the 2020s, they are shown as a far south lowland clan, as shown below. For further details about the MacLellan clan see this Wikipedia article.

In junior high school we had to read Walter Scott’s (1771 – 1832) Lady of the Lake (1810), I was fascinated that it began with a reference to Saint Fillans Spring. I learned that Saint Fillans was a village. The Lady of the Lake is Ellen Douglas. A prominent location in the poem is Ellen’s Isle (Gaelic: Eilean Molach = shaggy island) on Loch Katrine. It was a stronghold of Clan McGregor.
Those less inclined to read long poems may prefer Classics Illustrated #75, Lady of the Lake, which has 44 pages devoted to the story, and 1 page to its author. It was edited by Helene Lecar (? – ?) and illustrated by Henry Kiefer (1890 – 1957).
Other places in the poem, such as Ben Vorlic = Benvoirlich in Lady of the Lake, the mountain, are located near the village of Saint Fillans. Cill Fhaolain translates as The cell (dwelling) of Fillan. It is located at the east end of Loch Long, in Lochalsh, near the Isle of Skye.

Still, or Mirror Man, as it i popularly called, was sculpted by Ron Mullholland (1962 – ). The work stands 2.7m tall, and consists of more than over 800 hand-cut pieces of marine grade mirrored stainless steel. It was originally sold to the owners of the Four Seasons Hotel at Saint Fillans and set in place in 2014. The hotel owners sold the hotel, but took the sculpture with them in 2017. The people of Saint Fillans repurchased, repaired and repatriated the work, so that it was again back in the loch in 2025.

There are two other art works of note in the village. These are the Saint Fillans Dragon (shown above) and the Saint Fillans Toad (not shown).

New Lanark
My awareness of Lanark began with reading Alasdair Grey’s novel, Lanark, in the following reading order: Book 3, Prologue, Book 1, Book 2, Interlude, Book 4, Epilogue, Tailpiece. Wikipedia claims it contains an Appendix. This is not found in my 40th anniversary (2021) edition, but that could be just another name for the Tailpiece.
The main reason I wanted to visit the World Heritage site at New Lanark was to better understand the cotton weaving industry. We stayed on site at the Mill hotel, which was comfortable.

However, my mind was troubled by the posters at the site proclaiming that Britain led the world… This was followed by “… in developing steam power in the 18th and 19th centuries. My mind was unable to process this second half of the statement. It was angered by a Britain that had: waged war against Scotland to create a united kingdom in 1707, and exiled 92% of its highland population. The monied classes prospered. The clan chiefs sold out their clans. This was followed by an artificial tour of the factory led by a synthetic Annie MacLeod, a 10 year old girl working a 65 hour week in a dangerous factory, towards the end of the 19th century. Later, Scottish working class soldiers were used as canon fodder for the English in two world wars.

While I did not learn much, if anything, about cotton weaving, there was one part of New Lanark I appreciated, the rooftop garden, especially its sculptures. The smallest piece was of a frog. There were also assorted sculptured birds, rabbits and a larger than life butterfly. On the pathway to the Clyde Falls, and elsewhere, there were numerous dinosaur models, the most dangerous of which is shown below. The pathway was signposted using a badger.

After New Lanark, we were on the road again, stopping at the village of Canonbie. This is where my adoptive maternal grandfather’s family, The Andisons, originally came from. Below, is a photo of the multipurpose mail box, which appears to have its mail picked up on Wednesdays.

After visiting the village, we were soon on the road again. About 2 km south of the village, we entered England, and were there for about 10 km, possibly 10 minutes, before re-entering Scotland. The next night we had our most luxurious overnighting, but not the most expensive one, at Cally Palace Hotel.

At the hotel we ate breakfast adjacent to Steve and Liz (née Quinn) Marr. If I remember correctly, Liz is a pharmacist, while Steve had a degree in bio-chemistry, but works as the pastor of the United Free Church of Scotland, at Chryston, a village in North Lanarkshire, about 11 km east of Glasgow. They could tell us that Wigtown was a book town, located only a couple of hours away.
The first destination of the day was not Wigtown, but Kirkcudbright, with Castle MacLellan. At the giftshop, we were able to buy numerous MacLellan artifacts, including ties and key chains. The person running the gift shop was from some unknown rural area. His real occupation was that of bowyer, a craftsperson making bows.
We then toured part of the castle, which was undergoing an extensive restoration.


The Kirkcudbright war memorial is situated in front of the 16th-century MacLellan’s Castle and shows a seated warrior with sword and shield with a sleeping child on his knee. The sculpture was made by George Henry Paulin (1888 – 1962), known as Harry, with sculpting insignia GHP, erected in 1921.
We then drove to Wigtown where we were able to buy a number of books at two different bookstores. We then had dinner at the dining room of a local pub.

The rest of the day was spent driving back to Glasgow Airport, where we would overnight, before continuing our journey into the Hebrides.



